5 May – 16 May 2023

After 3 nights in Carnarvon, we made the huge 70km drive to the camping spot of Point Quobba. This camping area has grown tremendously since we were last here in 2012. It is a cheap camp at $22 a night and has a couple of drop toilets, bins and dump point. We managed to jag an amazing spot that had it’s own direct beach access. There is incredible snorkeling in an area called the ‘Aquarium’ This part of Quobba is protected so the fish are very curious and enjoy a close look at you. We saw many species of fish including snapper, parrot fish, many varieties of reef fish of the brightest colours known and also some turtles. We tried some beach fishing, but didn’t catch anything. Other things to see here are the famous blow holes. Unfortunately for us the timing with the tides didn’t allow us to see them in full force. One afternoon, we had a close encounter with a kimodo dragon who apparently lived in the bush right beside the van. Lets just say there was a scream and a very fast moving woman when it came out of the bush very quickly straight for her!

After 3 night at Quobba, we moved on past the Tropic of Capricorn (taking the obligatory photo of course) to 9 Mile (Bruboodjoo Point) just north of Coral Bay. We fueled up at Minilya Roadhouse and paid the most for diesel yet at 215.7c/pl! I’m sure this wont be the worst of it though. The landscape has also changed again. There are termite mounds everywhere and the scrub is now just that, very scrubby with trees being few and far between.

9 Mile is a basic beach camp where you need to bring everything in with you. The road into the camp from the main road was about 7km of corrugations, rocks, lumps and bumps. It took about 15 minutes to drive in but is definitely worth the effort. We met the most relaxed caretaker who charged us $80 for our 8 night stay (cheapest accommodation to date). We found a spot close to the beach, but not too close. The tides have been big in the week prior to us arriving and some areas are now flooded. Because we decided to face west we put the large awning wall straight up for the afternoon shade. This is also the start of mosquito and midgie heaven. After being attacked over the first 2 nights, we got savvy and worked out how to avoid the worst of the little buggers. Even now, I am still covered in little sores form all of the bites and scratching. There’s not a lot to do at 9 Mile except fish (beach and by boat), swim, snorkel, and relax which suits us. Some people stay here for about 3 months of the year to fish. They have quite big set-ups with shade cloth wind barriers and tinned fire places. We quickly found our favourite swimming and fishing spot on the far side of the camp area. Not many people go to this particular spot and you can drive onto the beach which makes everything easier. One evening we went out at low tide on a reconnaissance mission to see if there were any octopus hiding in the rock pools. It didn’t take too long to find one. The next night at low tide, we drove to the beach and walked out on to the rocks to look for the occy armed with 2 hooks, head torches, reef walker boots and the battery grinder (don’t worry, it was just to sharpen the hook if needed). Pete found him right where he was the previous night. After the hooks didn’t work, Pete had to physically wrestle it from it’s little house. The occy kept putting rocks in the way and Pete kept clearing them away. After a fight, Pete won and what resulted was incredible, an occy about 5 foot long. We’ve never seen one that big before. Because that wasn’t enough, Pete went looking for another one and he found it. After a shorter fight, this one also became food for the freezer. It was getting dark and we had to drive back, so the next one we saw got to live another day. We thought we’d do a quick trip to Coral Bay while here. There is a coastal access road which links Coral Bay to 9 Mile and on towards Ningaloo Homestead. The 35 minute drive along a heavily corrugated road was not the most pleasant. We had a quick swim and snorkel and then a trip to the local supermarket. For those that have been to the Coral Bay supermarket before, you’ll know the mortgage required to buy just a few items. 2 loaves of bread, a few herbs, a block of cheese, some milk and some burley set us back $72 ($20 was the block of cheese). We were in such shock at the prices we had to go and have a drink at the pub to get over it. Feeling better, we drove back to camp along the highway this time. The fishing was pretty successful over our 8 days. Besides the occy, we caught garfish, dart, parrot fish and flathead. Before we knew it, it was time to head off after 8 lovely nights by the fire, chatting to backpackers, traveling families and grey nomads. One last challenge on our way out, was to navigate another caravan on the gravel road. We were heading in opposite directions, with high sides on each side of the road. It was a very slow crawl as we navigated our way past each other inch by inch, each creeping further forward one at a time, until we could safely get back onto the road properly and keep heading out. This is definitely not something you want to do very often.

Along the way towards our over night stop, we decided to top up the wood pile on the car roof. We stopped a couple of times before finding just the right type of wood to use in our fire. We pulled off the road and went straight into the van to get changed. The spinifex is hideous out here so long pants and boots are a must. I can’t remember the last time Pete had long pants on. We also noticed another change to the scenery. The termite mounds have gone and the scrub has also changed. The land is becoming more mountainous and the rich reds are more intense with ore rock everywhere. Mine sites are all around here and the road trains are thick. The cargo they carry mostly resemble large lego parts like tyres, generators and the like.

After filling up at Natanura Roadhouse, and yes, paying even more for fuel (220.9 c/pl) we decided to drive to an overnight rest stop at Robe River, about 40km south of Fortescue. This awesome camp spot is on the banks of the Robe River. One side of the highway has the official rest stop with toilets, bins etc, but we decided to go to the eastern side of the highway which is much quieter. We absolutely loved this little spot. There were 6 vans in for the night with 3 having already been there for a few days. You could swim in the shallow, warm river, listen and watch the sulphur-crested cockatoos and other little birds roosting in the white gum trees, hear the local cows mooing as the sun went down and just stop in the shade of the old white gums at the end of the hot day. Next we head to 40 Mile (Gnoorea) which is 60km south of Karratha. We’ve never been before, so a new adventure awaits.